Hook: Mustad C53S or similar
Thread: Lt. Cahill Uni-Thread
Rib: Dk Brown Gossamer
Abdomen: Underfur taken from the cheek area of a Hare's Mask dyed Gold, touch dubbed to form.
Hackle: Whiting Brahma dyed golden straw wrapped through the thorax
Thorax: Fur taken from the upper cheek area of the Hare's Mask dyed gold-guard hair left in dubbed Leisenring Style

Mark

Yes, it could, however it could be used on the bottom as well because it also looks like a nymph.  That's the thing I like about wingless wet flies.  They can be used in a number of different ways.  In fact I'd normally fish this fly by itself, letting it sink to the depth I want, and when it reaches the fish or supposed lie of the fish, I'd activate it bringing it to the top by raising the rod. The fly is past my position at that point, so the current plus rod movement upward, gives the impression of a hatching fly. Basically, it's the Leisenring lift. You can gently wiggle the rod tip to give the fly more action.  If you have never used that technique, try it.  It is deadly many times.

If you want to get the fly deeper, you can add weight to the leader, but I suggest a sinking line.  The weight on the leader, in my opinion, impedes the natural action of the fly.

If you are going to fish it upstream or high sticking, dead drift near the bottom, a sink tip line would work fine.  It can also be fished floating mid column, or just below the surface on a floating line.  There are lots of ways to use this fly. 

Early wet fly fishing was executed on silk lines, which I'm sure sank when soaked well.  Of course they were treated for dry fly fishing.  The leader, too, usually of gut, sank as well because they were soaked prior to fishing.

We don't have any modern equivalent, unless you want to try a modern silk line, which they have.  Or you use a sinking, sink tip, or floating lines of today for various applications.

I really don't like adding weight to the fly or the leader with these flies, although many fishermen do.  It's whatever works for you.

I carry two lines with me. Both are on separate spools. One full sinking, one floating.  That way I can change when I want or need to.

Lots of ways to "skin one cat "  I guess.

Mark

these flys interest me highly ,there is more then one out there .I have been fishing the dechutes ,which is a difficult river to fish in some areas .there are long deep runs ,which i know hold trout ,I know someone who uses a cased caddis pattern to dredge the big boys up .im just interested in trying something different at some point to see if it works .I really dont like fishing the deep stuff but the river has alot of differnt water types on it .I want to be able to fish them all ,three rods on the boat though could be a pain .The biggest problem is being able to change lines .I dont like the poly leaders they are just strange and like fishing with jello on the end of the line .I know davy likes the intermediate sink lines ,for wind control which can be a factor on the Dechutes . So i think next time i do a long trout trip ill bring a full sink tip and see what happens .

Great fly and explanation Mark, thanks for sharing.

JI

It is strange that you should mention this, SloNDeep.  I have had similar problems with this hook, and have noticed it more, recently.  I believe it might have something to do with the curve and the way the barb is pointed up on a slight angle.  I looked at the 200R, and it looks the same.

I have been considering tying this fly and a few others I tie on this hook, instead:




This is the C53S

Compare this to the C53S I used on the fly. You can see a very distinct difference in the way the barb points.  In this hook it is straighter, making the hook gape wider.  This is a Daiichi 1260.  Guess I need to get some. The TMC 2312 is almost the same shape-wise, but the wire might be lighter.

Mark

Hi,
This particular fly pictured is a size 14.  Where I fish, this or a size 12 would be appropriate.  No reason you could not tie it larger for your usage.

Mark